As a homeowner, you want to make sure that all your plumbing fixtures are in good working order. This includes ensuring that your laundry/utility sink faucet is in good condition and free of leaks. Replacing a laundry/utility sink faucet may seem intimidating at first, but it is actually quite simple, and in many cases, the faucet and supply lines are even more accessible than your typical bathroom or kitchen plumbing job.
For this particular job, I did not have a leaky faucet; however, the spout on my old faucet was so corroded that it would not rotate to wash the left basin of my dual-basin sink. So, I decided to replace it. Whether you have a leak, or you simply want to update the look of your faucet, I’m confident that you, too, can tackle this beginner plumbing job.
Below, you will find the steps to take and the tools required to replace your utility sink with overhead supply lines. Let’s jump in!
Table of Contents
- Project Overview
- Tools for the job
- Step 1: Water shutoff valve(s)
- Step 2: Remove the union nut and connector
- Step 3: Remove the old faucet
- Step 4: Remove any tape and debris from the supply lines
- Step 5: Wrap your supply lines with plumbers tape
- Step 6: Attach your faucet connector
- Step 7: Thread the spout assembly
- Step 8: Mount your new faucet
- Step 9: Tighten the union nut to the new faucet
- Step 10: Turn the water supply on
- Voila! Give yourself a pat on the back. I knew you could do it.
- Faucet spout options
- Before and After
Project Overview
Working time: 20-45 minutes
Total project time, if a trip to your local home improvement store is needed: 60-90 minutes
Skill level: Beginner
Estimated cost: $50 (new faucet only) – $100 (new faucet + supplies)
Tools for the job
- Glacier Bay 2-Handle Laundry/Utility Sink Faucet
- Adjustable wrench – either a crescent wrench or a pipe wrench
- Safety goggles or glasses
- Work gloves
- Pipe thread sealant tape
- WD-40, PB Blaster, or some type of penetrating oil
- Wire brush
- Bucket (optional)
- Mounting block (only required for some applications)
- (Click any supply hyperlink for Home Depot products)
- Please note: you may be able to find these items cheaper elsewhere
Step 1: Water shutoff valve(s)
The first thing you will want to do to replace your laundry sink faucet is to turn off your water supply. There are various ways of doing this, depending on your plumbing configuration. Shutting off the shutoff valves on the supply lines themselves is the quickest and easiest way to shut off the water supply to the faucet. However, if your supply lines are not equipped with their own shutoff valves, you can simply shut the main water supply to your home off. Don’t worry, this job won’t take very long.
*But please note: if you choose option #2, turning the main water supply off, you will be unable to use water in your entire house until you turn the main shutoff valve back to the open position.
When you have located your specific water shutoff valve(s) and turned them to the closed position (clockwise), go ahead and rotate your faucet handles to the open/on position to drain out any water that may still be in the lines. This will keep your workspace and area dry and free from pooling water. If you would like, and if you have the space requirements, you can place a bucket underneath the sink to catch any drips from the supply lines that do not spill into the sink itself. In my case, this laundry sink is in the basement, standing on a concrete floor with a drain tile directly under the sink. So, I forewent this step.
Step 2: Remove the union nut and connector
Once the water has finished dripping, it’s time to remove the old faucet. To start, you may need to lubricate the union fittings and connector with some penetrating oil. To keep this step clean, I recommend attaching the built-in straw or flipping up the straw on your penetrating oil to get a precise stream of oil directly on the parts you need. Once you have lubricated the union nut and connector, take your crescent wrench, or pipe wrench, and remove the fitting (Photo 2). When I replaced my utility sink faucet, the connecting piece on the old faucet was a perfectly circular piece and did not have any flat surface which I could grab with a crescent wrench; that is why my job required a pipe wrench. The steel jaws on the pipe wrench provided optimal strength to loosen the connector until I could hand-turn it away from the old faucet (image 3).
Note: Because the female-threaded connector is upside down, you will need to turn your wrench clockwise to remove this piece. This seems counter-intuitive, I know. But it is due to the threads on your connector being upside down and attaching them to the male threads on the overhead supply lines.
Step 3: Remove the old faucet
With the union nut and connector out of the way, the only thing holding your old faucet to your sink or faucet block is the mounting screw on the back of the faucet. Simply take a crescent wrench and loosen the screw until the old faucet is no longer attached to the sink. Carefully, grab the faucet assembly and pull it off the sink/block.
Note: There may be some water trapped inside the old faucet assembly. Turn upside down over your sink or bucket to avoid any unwanted spills.
Step 4: Remove any tape and debris from the supply lines
With your union fitting, connector, and old faucet out of the way, remove the thread tape that may still be attached to your supply lines. There may be some mineral build-up on your threads, as well. Simply take a wire brush and carefully remove any debris on the male threads of your supply lines. You’ll be surprised how much debris comes off after using the wire brush!
Step 5: Wrap your supply lines with plumbers tape
Now, it is time to wrap your supply lines with new pipe sealant tape. Pipe tape should go in the direction of the threads/the connector or nut that you are screwing on, or easier said, clockwise. The tape should be straight and flat and should NOT be bunched up or protruding over the edge of the pipe. Please take extra care during this step, as this will create a nice watertight seal and it will allow water to flow freely if done correctly.
Step 6: Attach your faucet connector
BEFORE screwing your connector to your freshly taped male threads, slide the union nut up and over your supply line. My copper supply lines have a 90-degree bend approximately 6 inches above the faucet, so I “rested” my union nuts on the horizontal supply line while I threaded my connector piece. Thread your faucet connectors to the male threaded supply lines and tighten. With both connector pieces attached to the supply lines, slide your union nut down and over the connector.
Note: If your supply lines are straight up and down, simply hold the nut with one hand while you fasten the connector using a wrench with your free hand.
Step 7: Thread the spout assembly
BEFORE you attach your new faucet body to your sink, thread the spout assembly to ensure a tight seal. Doing this step before you attach your faucet to your sink or mounting block will be considerably easier, and much less frustrating, than trying to do this while it is attached. After you’ve threaded your spout assembly, apply plumbers’ tape to the male threads on the faucet (where you will attach the water supply lines).
Step 8: Mount your new faucet
Now, you are ready to mount your new faucet to your sink or mounting block! Ensure the two mounting tabs are facing the front of the tub, and the mounting screw in the back of the faucet body is loosened just enough so that it will slide onto the sink or block without rubbing, but not too loose where you will have to squeeze your hands behind the faucet for 10 rotations of the screw either. Line up your faucet body to the overhead supply lines (image 8) and tighten the mounting screw to firmly secure it to the sink/block (image 9).
Step 9: Tighten the union nut to the new faucet
With your mounting screw tight, it is now time to tighten the union nut onto the faucet itself (image 10). Do not over-tighten!
Step 10: Turn the water supply on
That’s it! Your new faucet is securely fastened to your sink basin or mounting block. Before you test for any leaks, remove the aerator and brass housing (image 12) by unscrewing it counterclockwise. Removing the aerator and housing will prevent any debris in the water lines from damaging your flow restrictor and internal parts.
Now, you can safely turn on the hot and cold handles and allow water to flow for one minute (image 13). After a minute, turn off the hot and cold handles and check your fittings for any leaks. Look underneath your sink for any leaks, as well.
Voila! Give yourself a pat on the back. I knew you could do it.
Faucet spout options:
For conservation purposes, most modern faucets today come with flow restrictors to limit the amount of water (measured in gallons per minute, or GPM) that can flow from a faucet – this includes your shower head, as well. For everyday use, with your new faucet, you can choose to leave the 2.2 GPM aerator on (image 16), or you can simply unscrew it to attach a garden hose or other type of attachment to reach the entire surface area of your sink basin (image 17).
Before and after:
